Time: 3 hours (includes dilly-dallying)
Distance: 5.4 km
Start: Hinewai Reserve Entrance, 632 Long Bay Road, Akaroa.
Finish: Same place - it's a loop. (anti clockwise)
Date: Friday 25th October 2024
Today we got to visit the beautiful Hinewai Reserve - a gem at the heart of Banks Peninsula/Te Pataka o Rakaihautū. Originally a 109 ha farm, the reserve was purchased in 1987 by Murray White and has since been extended (1250 ha) and returned to native forest under the watchful eye of the iconic Hugh Wilson - visionary environmentalist, mapmaker and signmaker extraordinaire. There are multiple tracks within the reserve, our intention today was a waterfall loop - comprising four tracks (in order) West, Big Kānuka, South and East, and four fabulous waterfalls (in order) Fuschia, Ghost, Hinewai and Boundary.
We parked on Long Bay Road, just outside the Hinewai Reserve entrance gate. A balmy N'orwester was gently blowing across bright blue skies. We headed directly to the Visitor Information Center, a 5 minute walk on an old grassy farm track, lined with yellow flowered gorse and copious signage with tree and track information. We marvelled at a stand of "toi", wide-leaved cabbage trees - unknown to us, the only cluster in Canterbury.
Just past the visitor center, the West Track descended into native bush. Simply delightful to walk through. Sounds corny - but there is no other way to describe it. At the Ōtanerito Lookout, the views down to the bay were stunning. The Pacific Ocean/Te Moana Nui a Kiwa melding into blue skies, giving an impression of infinity and beyond.
The second waterfall, also beautiful, was "Ghost Waterfall" - a 12 minute detour off South Track. Carolien replenished her water bottle at the stream and we discussed the pros and cons of doing this. [Ed's note, the Hinewai website says that water from the flowing streams in the reserve is drinkable]. On the way back to the main path, Edel got pricked by an onga onga nettle and appeared to be somewhat in a state of pain. I had visions of helicopter rescues, but in the nick of time Nicole flourished her Lucas' pawpaw ointment™ and we watched a miracle cure unfold. After Nicole gave the onga onga antidote, I relayed my onga onga anecdote which involves a hunter collapsing and dying after falling into an onga onga bush. I was so caught up in the story that I missed the track and everyone subsequently followed me into the middle of the slippery, rocky, onga onga rich river bed where Carolien got stung and I think I did too (#fingerstillabitnumbasiwritethis). We were all treading pretty carefully by this stage and the relief was palpable to be back on the marked path.
Next stop - Hinewai Falls. More superlatives. The pool at the base of the falls was deep enough to swim in and luckily I had brought my togs. The water was fairly cold but wonderfully refreshing. Weirdly noone else was keen to swim. I just don't understand it.
We got to the intersection of South Track and East Track where we crossed the bridge over the Boundary Falls. Here the water, sparkling in the sun, gushed across a large rock like a waterslide. Just past the bridge, a very steep ladder was followed by a very steep climb up the East Track to the top. The temperature gauge was in the 20's by now and we huffed and puffed. Eventually the track levelled out to cross a couple of gorse-laden slips.
It was 1:30 pm by the time we got back to the car and we were starving. We drove the shortest route to Duvauchelle where I had high hopes for a Moroccan mesclun lamb salad with feta and olives, but this was not forthcoming. We proceeded to Little River cafe and store - the best food in town by a long shot. We sat in the hot sun outside, reflecting on the beautiful walk and scoffing vege samosas, salmon slices, flutes, mango smoothies, coffees and hot chocolates.
Storm clouds were gathering as we drove home - rain and snow down to 500 meters forecast tomorrow.
