Time: 1 hour and 50 minutes
Distance: 7.4 km
Start: Lake Emma "car park" - a grassy area by the lake.
Finish: Same place - it's there and back
Date: Friday 20th September 2024
Warning: If you feel tempted to try and circumnavigate the lake, check out this blog post first. Apparently the terrain at the northern end of the lake is very boggy indeed.
Lambs and daffs. Furry foxes and effing magpies. Hairy backs and thripples. Such was the journey from Ōtautahi to Hakatere Potts Road and Lake Emma. A quick check of Lake Roundabout then a bumpy ride through the potholes to the gate at Lake Emma. We stepped out into the howling wind and the spectacular scenery.
Lake Emma - Kirihonuhonu is one of the Ashburton Lakes at the heart of the Hakatere Conservation Park. I couldn't find a Te Reo translation for Kirihonuhonu, but the area is called Ō Tū Wharekai - place of the food house, a reference to its former role as a mahinga kai (key food gathering ecosystem) for the Tākata whenua of Hakatere - local iwi, Kāi Tahu. There are twelve lakes (according to DOC), numerous swamps, fens, kettleholes, seepage wetlands and marshes - the consequence of retreating glaciers. These habitats are unique and vulnerable and home for many species of birds, fish, plants.
The lake, a browny green colour today, is shaped like a skewwhiff heart and there is a 4WD track (accessible to vehicles in the summer) along the south-eastern shore from the grassy car park to an old musterers hut. We rugged up and set to it. The wind whipped into every nook and cranny and the eyes streamed. I extracted my hanky from my backpack and blew my nose.
There was a veritable surf on the lake, but somehow ducks (scaup?) and swans were bobbing along doing their thing. We came to a plank - a makeshift bridge over Emma Stream, and crossed quickly so as not to blow off.
The windspeed increased at the southernmost point of the lake and pushed us along at a jaunty pace. After only about 45 minutes, we arrived at the historic musterers hut. Built around the 1880's, the hut is quaint but derelict. We sheltered inside, amidst redneck graffiti and an old coal range. Shacklock. Sharyn flourished six home baked chocolate muffins. Fabulous!
After paramanwa, we headed outside for a photo shoot. We were buffeted and blown away - Mount Potts was the back-drop. All too soon we gathered our things and set about the return. Shouting at each other by way of conversation.
Back in the car, we patted down our wild hair. On the way home there were two stops - first, the
Mount Somers General Store to stock up on supplies of high country honey (manuka) and soap (weka safe). Second, the
Harvey's Bakehouse in Rakaia for Sally Luns, sausage rolls and no-nonsense service. A truely New Zealand kultcharall experience.
